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Symi Island: A Timeless Jewel of the Dodecanese
There is a certain neoclassical elegance to Symi Island, a quality that speaks of its maritime past and contributes to the calm one finds on this Greek Dodecanese gem in the Aegean.
For those who want an experience with more substance than what the popular haunts of Santorini or Mykonos can provide, Symi has it in abundance. It is a place where history and culture are woven into the natural surroundings. The island’s under 3,000 inhabitants have created an environment of such serenity that visitors are drawn in; it is easy to let time stand still here and be moved by the landscape while old ways of life carry on.
A Glimpse into Symi’s Storied Past
You could say the history of Symi is every bit as vivid as the mansions that line its harbor. The very name of the island has roots in Greek mythology, coming from the nymph Symi and her union with the sea god Glaucus; an apt provenance for a place so bound to the sea. One finds ancient significance in Homer’s Iliad as well, which makes note of the legendary King Nireus of Symi and his ships bound for Troy.
There was a time in the Byzantine period when the island was a centre for shipbuilding, turning out warships for the empire. In more recent centuries the Knights of St. John put up a defence against pirates, and their work can be seen in the medieval remains of Symi Castle. Though it bears the marks of battle, the castle still affords a fine view of the surroundings.
Under the Ottomans, trade and sponge diving made for a prosperous and autonomous existence. Then came the Italians in the 20th century with their occupation, leaving an architectural legacy that is there to see. It was not until 1948, when Symi was incorporated into Greece, that this colourful story turned over a new leaf.
Architecture and Towns: A Palette of Pastels
One is hard to miss the neoclassical mansions of Symi, their ochre and cobalt blue or peach facades forming something of a theater set about Gialos, the principal port. Such is the impression made by these heritage-listed structures which are a testament to the fortunes made in shipbuilding and sponge diving in the 1800s. The harbor itself, with its Venetian-style frontages and fishing boats at rest, is widely considered one of the most scenic in Europe and looks as though it has been plucked from a postcard.
A walk up the Kali Strata, the 500-step marble stairway bordered by fine homes, will take you to Chorio, the old upper town of Ano Symi. In its tight lanes one can come across artisan workshops and unassuming chapels, not to mention the Archaeological-Folklore Museum. Set within an old mansion, the museum puts on display pieces dating back to prehistoric and Byzantine eras.
Then there is the matter of the Monastery of Archangel Michael Panormitis on the southwestern shore. A baroque work of art, it draws pilgrims who wish to pay their respects to the patron saint with votive offerings for having been granted safe passage.
Cultural Traditions and Festivals
One could say the culture of Symi is woven from a mix of religious fervour and a deep-seated maritime pride. The island’s history as a sponge-diving centre is put on display at the Symi Maritime Museum, with its collection of old diving suits and trawlers heavy with sponges.
Then there are the local festivals to consider. The Panormitis Festival in honour of Archangel Michael, or the Symi Festival that runs through the summer, are occasions where liturgy and music give way to communal feasting, giving an insight into Greek Orthodox ways of life. When Carnival comes around in February or March, the island is taken over by dancing and parades in full costume; for Easter, candlelit processions make their way down the cobblestones. And if one speaks with some of the older folk, they will have no trouble telling you stories of a hard life and dangerous dives, proof positive of the spirit here.
Culinary Delights: A Feast by the Sea
One need only look at the food in Symi to see its maritime heritage. The undisputed highlight is the Simiako garidaki, or Symi shrimp; these small crustaceans are fried until they have a nice crisp and put on the table whole. They are not to be missed at any of the tavernas by the water, best had with some homegrown capers or a sfougato, the kind of savory omelet that has a sponge-like quality. When it comes to dessert, akoumia is the way to go. This fried rice dough with a honey drizzle is something of a special occasion indulgence.
Then there is the matter of where to eat. Petalo Restaurant makes for a fine spot on the harbor to enjoy fresh seafood with a view of the Aegean. For something more creative, such as feta encased in filo, one might head to The Secret Garden. In Symi, the act of dining is an experience.
Natural Beauty and Outdoor Adventures
Symi may be a compact 22.4 square miles, but with its mix of rugged ground and clear waters, it is sure to provide an adventure. One can put in for a taxi boat at Gialos to reach the island’s only sandy beach at Agios Nikolaos or make for Agios Georgios Dysalonas, hemmed in by 300-metre cliffs.
There are old trails for hikers to follow that lead to some fine vantage points over the Turkish coast as well as Roman mosaics and monasteries from the Byzantine era. Underwater, divers will find plenty of interest in the form of a German warship on the sea floor and the remains of a village. For those on a boat tour, there are coves to be had such as St. George’s Bay, where The Guns of Navarone was once shot.
Practical Tips for Travelers
- Getting There: No airport exists on Symi; visitors typically fly to Rhodes and take a 1–2-hour ferry. Daily routes also connect to Kos, Patmos, and Athens (15-hour overnight ferry).
- Best Time to Visit: May–June and September–October offer mild weather and fewer crowds.
- Accommodation: Opt for boutique stays like Hotel 1900, a restored neoclassical mansion, or Pedi Beach Hotel for seaside tranquility.
- Local Souvenirs: Hand-harvested sea sponges, thyme honey, and prickly pear liqueur make for authentic keepsakes.
Conclusion: The Soul of the Aegean
One could call Symi a destination, but it is really an ode to the spirit of Greece. The island has a way of drawing you in with its sunlit harbors and mythic past, offering a chance to putter about and get to know a manner of living that mass tourism has not encroached upon.
James Collins, a British expat who has made the island his home for 14 years, puts it best: “You won’t forget Symi because of the people and their filoxenia [hospitality].” Be it a sunset climb up the Kali Strata or some good shrimp by the water, there is something here that stays with you. It is testament to the fact that the finest things are rarely the ones most heavily advertised.ertised.
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